We present seasonal collections and produce made-to-measure commissions year-round. The shop is still work in progress. How do You like A-I RTW trousers ? And some houses like it, because it gives them flexibility. More importantly, It is a broadly fact that Belvest’s products and Hermes are also different shape, despite belvest provided to their products hermes ordered, even details, yet Belvest is quite one of the finest tailloring made suit brands in the world. It can be misleading with any brand – as the customer assumes being made in a particular factory means a particular quality of make, when it often doesn’t. In regards to the prices of jackets and suits: How would you decide between this kind of high quality neapolitan tailoring and more affordable bespoke such a Graham Browne? A hand-padded chest makes the jacket three-dimensional. The way in which Anglo-Italian slims the waist of a jacket also produces more pronounced hips than I am used to, an effect you can just barely see in the head-on photo. This refers to it being sewn (by hand or machine) to the front of the suit rather than glued (fused). Alex thinks this will dissipate with a few wears, but I’m unsure. I’m considering a MTM jacket and deciding between Anglo-Italian and drakes. It’s hard to be comprehensive at this stage given I haven’t fully reviewed either. The name Anglo Italian obviously reflects the shop’s aesthetics – a somewhat modernized version of a mid-century style, when the Italians used to look to the English for their cues – but it’s also reflective of Jake and Alex’s personal backgrounds. Nameberry is a registered trademark of Nameberry, LLC. Alex is positively lovely and has many great stories to tell which make every trunk show with him enjoyable. I’ve recently bought a pair of AI shaved trousers (khaki)- but I’m struggling to find the right pair of shoes to wear with them?? Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian has captured the mood of … ... Wassup y’all! Alex had instructed me to wear it a few times to determine what needed adjusting, but unfortunately, it wasn’t close enough to the mark for that. May 16, 2020 - 1,658 Likes, 5 Comments - Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) on Instagram: “Jake. Those would be my top two, but I haven’t tried a large range so don’t really feel I can recommend that many. The exclusive loafer models are now offered with a rubber City Sole. Last weekend, of course, Franco Smith’s men went down 50-17in Ireland. Hi Simon thanks for sharing – I look forward to checking it out! Jake and I discussed his life growing up in Wimbledon, the world of classic menswear and how in his eyes, hardcore music and tailoring have a lot more in common than what you think. You can also subscribe without commenting. Do you know if they will have a web shop? The jackets and suits are all made in Naples, with soft shoulders and a tiny hint of rope in the shoulder. J. The rippling in the sleeve head is subtle and charming. Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jackets start at £1490 (including VAT) and go up in four tiers, depending on the cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 and £2200 (the latter just for cashmere). Before images on the left, after on the right. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their, If you live in London, you can visit Anglo-Italian’s store in. I learned of one of their NYC trunks shows from Instagram and I started a conversation via DM that quickly transitioned to email. The website with all details should be launching next week. I thought about trying, I don’t want to give you the impression the choice was merely made for the price though. And from that perspective too, one can be confident! Just like Berg & Berg or SuitSupply, they are a self-branded store, which means they don’t carry products under other labels. How would you rate the quality of the suede? A flying visit to Anglo-Italian I recently had a chance to visit Anglo-Italian on Weymouth St., the new venture of Alex Pirounis and Jake Grantham, both formerly of The Armoury . Formed in 2017 by Alex Pirounis and Jake Grantham. My guest this week is the co-founder of London shop Anglo-Italian, Jake Grantham. Thanks, though I am a little perplexed as to why there is a review of a shop which hasn’t even opened yet. Those of you familiar with my original review know I wasn't completely happy with the fit of my Anglo-Italian made-to-measure double-breasted suit. In that particular case, though, I’d suggest style would be as important as anything, given they are pretty different. They have a 3-roll-2 button configuration, patch pockets, and a generous lapel. Click on the image for more wonderful photos of their London store. Do You know how their Chinos are compared to Chinos from drakes and incotex?. Also, knowing where they are made would not have any affect on the make or style. Jake Grantham of Anglo-Italian at Pitti Uomo 97 January 2020. At first, I thought it was an alterations mistake, but it’s clearly present in the photography on their website and is an element of the house style. In retrospect, he was clearly right. Generally, yes. I’m considering going for either Trunks MTM option or Anglo Italian. As you mentioned it in this article, could you elaborate (or refer to a previous article dealing with it). One other process improvement I would recommend is a change of location. Wish you all the best and success , a new high end men’s wear store in Europe ! That would be a difficult comparison and would depend on how much you rated the different benefits of bespoke and handwork. David lives and works in Washington, D.C. Like many men, his passion for classic menswear began at work, but it was soon obvious few others viewed tailoring as anything other than an unfortunate necessity. 21-okt-2015 - 347 Likes, 18 Comments - Jake Grantham (@cadeandco) on Instagram: “Taking out the Panico for a spin” Most directors keep up with or find out the brand they would like to make, so that I am curious where they order. Best wishes to Jake and Alex! Before opening Anglo-Italian last summer, Pirounis ran the Amoury’s outpost in Hong Kong, and his business partner, Jake Grantham, is a Savile Row veteran—so they know their clothes and customers. There is lots of handwork: hand-fixed collar, hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached lining, and most usefully of all, a hand-padded lapel (though not chest). But hwo actually produce gacca and pantalone for them in Naples? I can elaborate more elsewhere but I’m not sure there is a post that goes into more detail. We are proud to present Anglo-Italian Tessuti, our own collection of cloth, woven in England & Italy. He met Alex Pirounis there, and they both eventually left to start their shop in London called Anglo Italian.If you want to hear more about that, I def encourage you to listen to Jake's first pod we did together. More complicated would be adjusting the jacket for my lower right shoulder. I used my normal size, which is 8. All the ways to say “Hello” in Italian. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors were going up a few minutes before everyone arrived. Made in Naples, just stuck in Germany with shipping! I have a fairly forward shoulder posture, but the jacket has nicely compensated for that. It is already shown that their style is fabulous. Thank you for your time. Anglo-Italian’s Fall/Winter 2020 Lookbook October 27, 2020 Only three years old, Anglo-Italian is evolving their clothing in slow, steady increments that feel imperceptible in the moment, yet which have added up to create a fuller and fuller picture of the vision of founders Jake … I really liked the style and fit of their trousers so I comissioned one pair. Thanks. Chad Prom is a RTW line created by the guys at the bespoke tailors B&Tailor in Korea. Making clothing, especially tailored-made, is needed to get the number of shoulders, chest and bottom of ratio for pattern of composition, so that shape of jacket would be made differently. 28.1k Followers, 1,069 Following, 1,633 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Jake Grantham (@jakeedwardgrantham) © 2021 Nameberry.com. Comparing Anglo-Italian to Neapolitan bespoke would bring up the benefits of bespoke more clearly. However, in terms of pattern or cut, it is quite different idea from your review. It looks good and feels good. 33k Followers, 4 Following, 579 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) Do you know the approximate price of the suede jacket, MTM, off the top of your head SImon? It is the foundation. A very interesting job indeed! On the trousers, I had my tailor shorten the hem and widen the leg below the knee to a 7.5" opening. The problem is this segment of the market is quite limited. The focus - in the charming shop off Marylebone High Street - is Italian tailoring and things to wear with it. Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. The jackets are in faded checks and the trousers come in soft browns and greens; the ties and scarves too are muted and versatile. However, as with many traveling tailors, communication could probably be improved somewhat. Cut in an aviator style similar to the Valstar, its distinctive feature is a high collar of ribbing that can be flipped up or down - the latter being warmed and having a lot more swagger. I can’t really offer a full opinion on Anglo-Italian until I have something made for myself, but that should happen fairly soon. I will visit London from 4th to 10th June, could you let know when will they officially open & the actual address, thanks! A hand-padded chest is the most fundamental craft element of a bespoke suit. The style is a little different though – AI softer and more neapaolitan, though with a touch of rollino in the shoulder. Personally I’d suggest trying a brown suede loafer. I picked a double-breasted suit, because it’s Anglo-Italian’s more distinct offering, whereas their single-breasted suits are similar to many other Neapolitan designs. Despite the short notice I was able to make the trip for the second fitting, which was painless and very quick. I have a Formosa RTW sport coat (where the chest is padded by hand I believe) and the swell at the chest is just lovely. In terms of Anglo Italian, you said that Tailoring jacket and shirts is made by italy, especially Naples. 1000yardstyle. Italian with Jake. It will be considered that directors can develop or give the data on proportional accuracy. So yes, you want a more casual shoe probably. The waist is just right, something that may seem rather minor, but when you wear high-waisted trousers without braces is actually crucially important. Hi Simon Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. The logos on the suit, hanger, and garment bag are tasteful and delightfully retro. An excellent choice of location making Marylebone High Street and go to location for beautiful menswear. I´will have to wait until next time I coming to London to see them. Slowly but steadily, London is bound to reverse the tide. If the jackets are a little roped in the shoulder will that make them a little more formal and less suitable for wearing with more casual trousers/jeans than the shirt sleeve/Neapolitan-style? A minor cosmetic detail was wrong as well, I'd asked for only one rear pocket, on the left side, and the trousers came with one right rear pocket. What I mean is that the factories have characteristic ratio of pattern. Are there plans for a “Permanent Style LIVE” function on the website? Yes and yes. I inquired about a flapped ticket pocket, but Alex advised against because it is too flashy for the Anglo-Italian brand. If you have very wide feet, that might be an issue. I’ve never owned a jacket with generous drape or extended shoulders before and it’s a fairly sharp change of silhouette that was jarring at first. Of course, I’ve believed that Alex and Jake is ones of the tremendously professional directors in contemporary classic scene since The Armoury HK, which place I visited and bought some. Naturally, almost everything they wear is available at Anglo Italian (many are designs that are exclusive to the shop, including the sport coats, jeans, and oxford button-downs). I am very pleased about your mention. Absolutely and totally I will buy their finest products. Just need to line up some photography for the P Johnson. I've known Jake Grantham for nearly ten years, and it has been incredible to watch his rise.. Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jackets start at £1490 (including VAT) and go up in four tiers, depending on the cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 and £2200 (the latter just for cashmere). Hi, Simon, did you manage to try on any of the tailored jackets? It is a beautiful worsted MTM trouser, with a special colour ( kind of green, cream…hard to define). Isaia). Jake Grantham & Alex Pirounis on behalf of all at Anglo-Italian. Hand-padded lapels have arguably less benefit. Best congrats to him and Alex Pirounis! are they similar to any of the big Italian names, I usually find Italian RTW is too boxy (e.g. Thank you for your sharing. The fact that the factory is not that important on cut and shape is demonstrated by Drake’s moving factories in recent years, yet the cut still being very recognisable, and Anglo-Italian themselves moving in some areas. There is also a navy-nylon field jacket, to wear over the tailoring, a range of odd trousers, to wear with the bombers or the tailoring, and a selection of crewneck knitwear. On a par with RL purple label, or Stoffa – or a bit below that? Must be a first. On my next pair, I will decrease the inseam slightly and widen the leg opening to seven and a half inches, which should correct this issue. Thank you. And do know how the quality is? settembre 7, 2018. I have ordered, and received, the Bradbourne loafer in dark brown sided with city sole, in the last 72. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian has captured the mood of this moment in menswear. These winter friendly soles help to protect the shoe against damp conditions, but remain Goodyear welted and made to Crockett and Jones' exacting specifications. It’s been a long time coming. I’m waiting to fit it with Agyesh next Friday, then I will post. I really wish this guys all the best. 5 Apr 2020 - Anglo-Italian on Instagram: “Jake wears our Cashmere Tie in Grey Prince of Wales Blue Overcheck, made-to-measure Suit and Shirt.” Advice? The name Liliana is a girl's name of Spanish, Italian origin meaning "lily, a flower". hi Simon, are the jackets made in Napoli from a factory or or a Neapolitan sartoria? And they are useful, particularly in the summer. Feb 9, 2020 - Anglo-Italian on Instagram: “Jake in our Reverse Stripe OCBD. Many thanks for the article. I needed a business suit, one that would largely blend in, but stand out to those in-the-know. Nov 7, 2019 - 24.1k Followers, 5 Following, 425 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) Ah I see. I’d recommend the shaved cotton. As you likely know, most of my wardrobe is composed of pieces from mid-tier brands like Suitsupply and increasingly lately, Spier & MacKay. Follow on Instagram. I know these 2 guys at Armoury in HongKong, didn’t know they start their own business together until now. Simon, any plans to try the AI mtm offering? Best to wait for images of the jackets themselves to get an idea of style, or of course visit them. Hopefully, the Anglo-Italian products will be befitting of Jake and Alex’s youth. View Jake Grantham’s profile on LinkedIn, the world’s largest professional community. I currently own two (different styles, different vendors). Would you let me know which brand or factory is making? Of course, now that I have an established pattern, all I need to do is ask for fabric swatches and order at my convenience, which makes the initial somewhat lengthy process more tolerable. These are really good news! See the complete profile on LinkedIn and discover Jake’s connections and jobs at similar companies. Jake and Alex's new shop in Marylebone in London is an absolute gem of a little shop. Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit, Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home, Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review, The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – featuring Anglo-Italian, The Media Symposium – the dinner and party. Both worked for the Armoury —the contemporary high water mark of men’s stores—making a name for themselves in the industry (and on many a Tumblr) before forging their new vision together in London in 2016. Simon, how does the handwork on the suits and overall quality compare with Sartoria Formosa? There is also some rippling across the mid-back which might necessitate lowering the collar. I love the roll knit collar idea, having never seen that style presentation before. The jacket drapes nicely in the chest and doesn’t pull even the tiniest amount at the waist. And finally, the make isn’t really the prime sell with Anglo-Italian for me – it’s the cut and the style, which Jake and Alex could take anywhere. Jake Grantham & Alex Pirounis on behalf of all at Anglo-Italian Seasonal Sport Jackets Tailoring has always been at the centre of our offering, and we are pleased to present our Sport Jackets for this Spring & Summer season. Their denim is available both in store and online. Not sure if the same thing can be achieved by just adding drape. The fit is not perfect though, there is slightly too much room in the shoulders, and I think the left shoulder is slightly too wide, affecting the drape of the sleeve. fair points. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Bombers were 850 I think, will double check the MTM price. Where else would you advise for MTM ? The stand-out piece here is a suede bomber jacket, available ready-to-wear in tan and dark brown. Either MTM or Bespoke is not an option unless I travel. Jake has 3 jobs listed on their profile. You’ll get that too. Even bespoke commissions are better the second time around, but the fit on this suit is excellent. Ten weeks later (August 15th), I received my suit at home in DC. While a lovely establishment, the basement library lacks the natural lighting necessary to facilitate fittings. While the former may have far more hand operations and a better construction, wouldn’t the latter, being bespoke, offer a better fit? Do you know which factories P Jonson and Anglo Italian make from? John. Now re-stocked along with our University Stripe and Green Stripe.” Thanks for reading this long-winded review. Yes that makes sense. This melodious and feminine Latin variation of the Lily family is a favorite in the Hispanic community and would work beautifully with an Anglo surname as well. You get it even on some pretty cheap suits. After reading “a sliding scale of formality have I been considering a norwegian splittoes (brown leather) in leather or a suede oxford. For a first commission, I think this suit is a success. London, March 2020.” We shortened the rear rise to compensate for my locked-leg standing and that worked well; the seat of these trousers fit better than any other pair that I’ve had. Plus brands move, as I know Anglo Italian have. Thanks Knud, yes someone pointed out above that it had changed, Some tailors like it, because it means they can take on another work if they want to. Simon, is your full review of your P Johnson jacket and trousers coming? Anglo-Italian is a young company, but its founders Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis both have a long history in menswear. 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